Spiral Motif Bedspread — Free Crochet Pattern

Materials

• Yarn: Worsted weight (Category 4) acrylic, wool, or cotton blend yarn[cite: 2, 11].
  • Color A (Soft Lavender / Lilac): ~2,200 meters (~2,400 yards)[cite: 2, 11]
  • Color B (Cream / Off-White): ~2,000 meters (~2,200 yards)[cite: 2, 11]
• Crochet Hook: 5.0 mm (US H/8) crochet hook, or size required to match gauge and drape[cite: 2, 11].
• Notions: 2 locking stitch markers (essential for securing unworked yarn loops while switching colors in spirals), tapestry needle, scissors, measuring tape[cite: 2, 11].
• Blocking Tools: Foam blocking mats, rust-proof stainless steel T-pins, and steam iron or spray bottle[cite: 2, 11].

Abbreviations

Instructions

Main S-Spiral Unit Motif — Lavender & Cream (make ~80 for Queen size)

Each modular S-unit consists of two interlocked two-tone spiral circles joined at a central S-curve stem[cite: 2, 11]. The spirals are worked continuously without joining rounds[cite: 2, 11]. Use stitch markers to hold live loops when switching between Color A (Lavender) and Color B (Cream)[cite: 2, 11].

First Spiral Circle (Center to Outer Expansion)

1. Round 1 (Starting Core with Color A): With Color A (Lavender), make a magic ring[cite: 2, 11]. Ch 1, work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc into the ring[cite: 2, 11]. Do not join[cite: 2, 11]. Place a locking stitch marker in the live loop of Color A and pull loop tall[cite: 2, 11]. [4 sts in ring][cite: 2, 11]
2. Round 1 Continuation (Introducing Color B): Join Color B (Cream) into the same magic ring behind Color A’s stitches[cite: 2, 11]. Work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc into the ring[cite: 2, 11]. Pull magic ring tail tight[cite: 2, 11]. [4 sts of Color B; 8 sts total in core][cite: 2, 11]
3. Round 2 (Color A Swirl Expansion): Re-insert hook into Color A loop[cite: 2, 11]. Work 2 dc in each of the 4 sts made by Color B in Round 1[cite: 2, 11]. Place marker in loop, remove hook[cite: 2, 11]. [8 dc in Color A][cite: 2, 11]
4. Round 2 (Color B Swirl Expansion): Re-insert hook into Color B loop[cite: 2, 11]. Work 2 dc in each of the 8 sts made by Color A in Round 2[cite: 2, 11]. Place marker in loop, remove hook[cite: 2, 11]. [16 dc in Color B][cite: 2, 11]
5. Round 3 (Color A Outer Ridge): Re-insert hook into Color A loop[cite: 2, 11]. Work *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * across next 8 sts of Color B[cite: 2, 11]. [12 dc in Color A][cite: 2, 11]
6. Round 3 (Color B Outer Ridge): Re-insert hook into Color B loop[cite: 2, 11]. Work *1 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st; repeat from * across next 12 sts of Color A[cite: 2, 11]. [18 dc in Color B][cite: 2, 11]
7. Round 4 (Tapering Color A): Re-insert hook into Color A loop[cite: 2, 11]. Work 1 dc in next 4 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st to smooth down the edge[cite: 2, 11]. Fasten off Color A, leaving a 20 cm tail[cite: 2, 11]. [9 tapering sts][cite: 2, 11]
8. Round 4 (Tapering Color B): Re-insert hook into Color B loop[cite: 2, 11]. Work 1 dc in next 6 sts, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, 1 sc in next 2 sts, sl st in next st to finish the first circular spiral[cite: 2, 11]. Fasten off Color B[cite: 2, 11]. [11 tapering sts][cite: 2, 11]

Second Counter-Spiral Circle (Forming the S-Curve Unit)

1. Step 1 (Connecting Stem): Attach Color A (Lavender) to the outer edge of the first spiral circle at the base of the final sl st[cite: 2, 11]. Ch 8 to form the bridging stem curve between spiral centers[cite: 2, 11].
2. Step 2 (Core of Second Spiral): In 4th ch from hook, work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc[cite: 2, 11]. Place marker in Color A loop[cite: 2, 11]. Join Color B (Cream) into same ch space, work 1 sc, 1 hdc, 2 dc[cite: 2, 11]. [8 sts core][cite: 2, 11]
3. Step 3 (Reversing Spiral Direction): Work the 2nd spiral following Rounds 2–4 of the First Spiral, but curving in the opposite direction (counter-clockwise) so that the two circular swirls form a continuous symmetrical “S” shape[cite: 2, 11].
4. Step 4 (Outer Border & Edge Smoothening): Attach Color B around the entire perimeter of the completed S-unit: work 1 sc in each st around both outer curves and 3 sc into the inner valley fold where the two circles meet[cite: 2, 11]. Join with sl st, fasten off, and weave in core tails[cite: 2, 11]. [1 unit completed][cite: 2, 11]

Interlocking Border & Assembly

1. Arrangement: Lay out the completed S-spiral units in interlocking rows on a flat surface[cite: 2, 11]. Each S-unit fits snuggly into the curves of neighboring units like puzzle pieces, creating an alternating purple-and-cream wave pattern across the blanket[cite: 2, 11].
2. Joining Rows (Whipstitch or Slip Stitch Join): With wrong sides facing together, use Color B (Cream) and a tapestry needle to whipstitch the matching outer loops of adjacent S-units together[cite: 2, 11]. Alternatively, join with a flat slip stitch seam working in the back loops only[cite: 2, 11].
3. Filling Outer Edges: To straighten the outer top, bottom, and side borders of the bedspread, work partial half-spiral fill motifs (make 12 half-spirals) to fill in the concave edges along the perimeter[cite: 2, 11].
4. Bedspread Scalloped Outer Border: Attach Color A (Lavender) in any corner st along the outer bedspread edge[cite: 2, 11].
   • Round 1: Ch 1, work 1 sc in each st around all 4 edges, working 3 sc in each corner[cite: 2, 11]. Join with sl st[cite: 2, 11].
   • Round 2: Switch to Color B (Cream)[cite: 2, 11]. Ch 3 (counts as dc), *skip 1 st, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in next st, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next st; repeat from * around perimeter to form soft scalloped waves[cite: 2, 11]. Join with sl st[cite: 2, 11]. Fasten off[cite: 2, 11].

Matching Spiral Throw Pillows (make 2)

Each throw pillow features a large square panel composed of 4 interlocking spiral motifs on the front and a solid double crochet back panel[cite: 2, 11].

Pillow Front Panel (Spiral Square)

1. Step 1: Crochet 4 main S-Spiral Unit Motifs using Color A and Color B as instructed above[cite: 2, 11].
2. Step 2: Arrange the 4 S-units into a square tile (2×2 formation) so the swirls rotate toward the center[cite: 2, 11]. Seam the inner edges securely together using Color B[cite: 2, 11].
3. Step 3 (Squaring the Circle Border): Attach Color B to any corner curve[cite: 2, 11].
   • Round 1: Work *[2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr] in corner st, dc in next 4 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, sc in next 8 sts, hdc in next 6 sts, dc in next 4 sts; repeat from * around all 4 sides to square out the motif[cite: 2, 11]. Join with sl st[cite: 2, 11]. [100 sts][cite: 2, 11]
   • Round 2: Ch 3, 1 dc in each st around, working [2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc] in each ch-2 corner sp[cite: 2, 11]. Fasten off[cite: 2, 11]. [116 dc][cite: 2, 11]

Pillow Back Panel

1. Row 1: With Color A (Lavender), ch 57[cite: 2, 11]. Dc in 4th ch from hook and in each ch across[cite: 2, 11]. Turn[cite: 2, 11]. [55 dc][cite: 2, 11]
2. Rows 2–32: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across[cite: 2, 11]. Turn[cite: 2, 11]. Fasten off after Row 32[cite: 2, 11]. [55 dc per row; square panel ~40 x 40 cm][cite: 2, 11]

Finishing

1. Pillow Assembly: Place one Pillow Front Panel and one Pillow Back Panel wrong-sides together[cite: 2, 11]. Using Color A, sc around 3 sides through both layers[cite: 2, 11]. Insert a 40 x 40 cm pillow insert, then sc across the 4th side to seal[cite: 2, 11]. Fasten off and weave in ends[cite: 2, 11].
2. Weaving Ends: Turn the bedspread wrong side up and thread all loose yarn tails through a tapestry needle[cite: 2, 11]. Weave ends securely back and forth through dense stitches before trimming[cite: 2, 11].
3. Steam Blocking: Pin the bedspread out onto blocking mats to its full dimensions (~220 x 240 cm)[cite: 2, 11]. Lightly steam with a steam iron held 2 inches above the fabric (do not touch iron directly to yarn if using acrylic) to set the flat spiral geometry and open up the wave edges[cite: 2, 11].

Tips for Success

• Use Stitch Markers for Two-Tone Spirals: When working continuous two-color spirals, keep locking stitch markers in the active loops[cite: 2, 11]. This prevents your unworked yarn from unraveling while you switch colors[cite: 2, 11].
• Match Yarn Weights Exactly: Ensure your Lavender and Cream yarns are the exact same brand and weight class[cite: 2, 11]. Variations in thickness will warp the spiral geometry and prevent motifs from lying flat[cite: 2, 11].
• Maintain Consistent Tension: Spirals can easily cup if stitches are too tight or ruffle if increases are too loose[cite: 2, 11]. Check your gauge on the first 3 motifs before crocheting the entire batch[cite: 2, 11].
• Count Increases Carefully: The gradual expansion from single crochet up to treble crochet gives the spiral its smooth swirl line; missing an increase will alter the circular shape[cite: 2, 11].
• Join Motifs in Batches: Rather than waiting until all 80 motifs are made, seam them together in blocks of 10 to monitor total bedspread size and shape as you go[cite: 2, 11].
• Steam Block for Best Results: Blocking is crucial for this design to flatten the interlocked S-curves and smooth out seam joins across the large bedspread surface[cite: 2, 11].

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Forgetting to Carry Yarn Loose Behind Work — Pulling the dormant yarn color too tightly across the back when alternating spiral strands will pucker the center circle[cite: 2, 11].
• Twisting the Bridging Stem Chain — When chaining between the two spiral circles of an S-motif, ensure the foundation chain is not twisted before inserting your hook for Round 1[cite: 2, 11].
• Using Too Small a Hook Size — A small hook makes the dense double crochet swirls stiff rather than soft and drapey on a bed cover[cite: 2, 11]. Stick to a 5.0 mm hook or larger[cite: 2, 11].
• Uneven Seaming Tension — Pulling assembly thread too tightly when joining S-units will cause visible ridge puckers along the blanket face[cite: 2, 11]. Keep seaming stitches light and flexible[cite: 2, 11].
• Skipping Blocking on Pillow Panels — Unblocked square framing around circular spirals can distort the pillow shape[cite: 2, 11]. Always block front panels before sewing them to back panels[cite: 2, 11].

Ways to Customize This Pattern

• Alternative Color Combinations: Try deep ocean navy blue and crisp white for a Mediterranean nautical motif, or sage green and terracotta orange for an earth-toned rustic look[cite: 2, 11].
• Convert to a Throw Blanket: Make a smaller lapghan or throw blanket (~120 x 150 cm) by reducing the total motif count to approximately 30 S-units[cite: 2, 11].
• Single Spiral Coasters & Trivets: Work just the First Spiral Circle (Rounds 1–4) in thick cotton yarn to craft matching round spiral coasters and hot pads[cite: 2, 11].
• Adding Fringe or Tassels: Attach 15 cm yarn tassels to the four corners of the bedspread or pillow corners for a bohemian decorative finish[cite: 2, 11].